April 3, 2013
Why travel (as a lifestyle)

There comes a time when it is appropriate to ask questions like “what got me here.” Not here in life. I’m 24. I am decidedly not having a midlife crisis. But here, physicially, where I am.

It would seem that my current existance in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, hanging out before catching a prop plane to Somalia is absolutely the perfect time to ask that question. Why do I travel the way that I do? How do I, or, if I want to project myself on an entire community (always appropriate) we as travellers, relate to the places I/we drift through. What do we hope to gain? What purpose do these places serve in our own narratives?

An amazing travel companion of mine, Pablo, once asked such a question. We were passing through Popayan, Colombia, and discussing other parts of the country that we had been to separately. Which places were “worth going to,” and which were simply… “not.”

Isn’t it weird how we just fucking… consume places?” Pablo asked.

Huh?!” was my response as I alternated between a beer and some sort of delicious pastry I had recently come across. Consuming places wasn’t really what was on my mind at the time. Consuming alcohol and food took priority.

I don’t know. We just… fly or bus or hitch-hike or whatever to these countries or cities and smile at how different things are like we’re in… fucking Epcot Center or something?”

I half shrugged off the question at the time. It was interfering with my consumption of Popayan. This conversation came at the tail end of 11 months of travel, my longest stretch of unadulterated backpacking to date. I had spent a few months in Scandinavia and on the Iberian Peninsula, worked my way through the Mediterranean Middle East from Istanbul to Siwa, in Egypt’s West, and was somewhere in the middle of my five months travelling the vast majority of Spanish speaking South America. It was one of the best years of my life, and I certainly didn’t feel a strong inclination to unpack my situation. My identity at that time was as a traveller (it still might be, I’m not sure), and, like most people when they feel any sort of threat to their identities, I shut down and defended it.

And, here I am, years later. Spending my 11 day Spring Break from my teaching job in the Bronx laying around in Ethiopia. It’s my first time back to Sub-Saharan Africa since I spent 4 months between the DRC, Burundi, Rwanda, Uganda, Kenya, and Tanzania in the summer of 2009. I’ve travelled a lot in between then and now, but, more-so than I have felt this way in the last year or so, I really feel like I’ve stepped back into my old life, minus a few critical bits, my skin is no longer conditioned to the desert sun, despite my attempts to compensate with sunscreen.

I’ve spent my days talking to exceptionally friendly locals, negotiating Somaliland visas at the only existing Somaliland Consul (hence my presence in Addis) vacillating between expat hangouts (the German Beer Garden has been a favorite) and bumming around with the locals in share taxis. Tomorrow I have another day of the same. I’m not sightseeing at high speed. I’m not visiting friends. I don’t know a single fucking person. I cannot
believe I have only been here for two days. Time, at least the way we measure it with our 11 day vacations or 5 day work weeks, becomes less and less relivant.

Why do we do it?

I remember an article in Lonely Planet Magazine about the benefits of travel. It mentions travel making you younger, because it makes time slow down, like when you were a kid and a week seems like an eternity. I think I buy that. But let’s be honest. We don’t travel to make time slow down.

I personally don’t buy into travelling as an escape, either. A lot of the non-travellers in my life are only able to understand my love for the… hobby? Lifestyle? What the fuck is it? By asking me what I am running from. What I’m afraid of. And while, like just about everyone, there’s a lot in the world and in my future that makes me a bit nervous, I’ve never felt like I was running away from myself. I have felt like I was trying to escape the constraints of my situation. That I’ve done.

Some old candy bar advert was centered around guys getting asked tough questions by their girlfriends, and buying a moment to think their response over by shoving a… twix? Snickers?… Into their mouths. Real, long haul travel is kind of the twix moment for our life decisions. It is literally time off of a pre-determined path to re-invent ourselves, not really in the present but in the future. It’s a chance for us to meet people who are of radicially different backgrounds than ourselves, whether we mean the people we are travelling with or the people we encounter while we pass through their communities.

But that isn’t all of it.

For many travellers, myself included, travel transitions from a string of international experiences to an international
lifestyle. There are elements of this in almost every backpacker I know. I cannot count how many times I have had the following conversation:

XXX: “What’s you’re favorite country?”

Me: “That’s a really hard question to answer, I like different places for different reasons.”

XXX: “OK. Where could you see yourself living?”

And there it is. The liberation that goes beyond the temporary. I guess it makes sense. As travel becomes more and more of a lifestyle, and the countries that issue our passports become less and less relevant to our day to day lives, with international bank accounts set up to get paid from jobs overseas and without an apartment at home full of furniture, we start to think about where we could see ourselves settling down.

I have this list, a lot of us do. For me, though, I think it is far less about escapism than it is about
control.

Come on. The Westerners of our generation have grown up to national economies imploding, unemployment looming at the end of university, international warfare we didn’t necessarily sign onto, and a digital revolution that makes it more and more possible to keep in touch and handle our affairs from anywhere in the world. There is less that makes life at “home” desireable, and far more equipment available to make our transitions to expat life as smooth and flawless as possible.

Even this short trip would be impossible without these technologies. I have graded student work on the stopovers. There’s wifi on my intercontinental flights so that when I get back to Manhattan I can rush straight to a dentists appointment, my work already uploaded and available to my team. My sister gets married in California three days after I get back. The shirt I need for my suit will be waiting for me in an Amazon locker a five minute walk from my apartment when I get back into the country. How’s that for portability. How’s that for control? I can be on a beach in Somalia, choreographing a bunch of tasks to make my personal and professional life run efficiently.

Beyond our collective experience, my childhood was a combination of interstate moves every few years, a rotating door of people living in our home, with the odd terminal illness or abuse case rocking the house from time to time. I never really thought of it before, but more than anything, I think this is what’s shaped me. It’s why I’ve always made sure to have access to enough cash to get away and at least make the first moves in the direction of starting over. It’s why I have backup plans around the world… places I’d go if my job fell through or became unacceptably unworkable. I’ve seen way too many people fall into the seemingly inevitable trajectories of their lives, and that isn’t what I want for myself. So I’ve made sure there was always an escape option.

There’s different degrees of this, of course. Somalia, it may surprise you to know, is not a place that I’d rush to move to. It’s a break from life. From the hustle and bustle. A twix moment. But it’s more than that. A reaffermation of freedom. Of the fact that there are doors open. A chance to challenge myself. And yeah. To lay on a beach, 8,000 miles from home, and read a book.

Andrew

March 27, 2013
Leaving Ethiopia

So I’ve been meaning to write this for a while.. to write something about how absolutely fucking exceptional it feels to be back in Africa. Unfortunately, I put it off until my day at the airport in between Ethiopia and Somaliland, and for anyone who knows much about flying in sub-Saharan Africa, it isn’t always the most low stress of times…. my flight “didn’t exist” for a while in all of the computers, and then turned up, scheduled for 10:40, instead of the 8:30 listed on my ticket. Yeah it could be worse, but it sure makes me resent waking up at 5:45 to catch this “early morning” flight.

I suppose the first indications hould have been that it’s an international flight leaving from the domestic terminal. I’ve taken a few of these and they never seem to end that well.

Anyway, Ethiopia has been amazing. I don’t know if it s a difference in the culture here or the fact that I”m a different kind of traveller than I was when I first came to the continent four years ago, but things are going really, really, easily. Public transport has been fine, although I did make the mistake of getting trapped in the rain my first day here (I’ll upload pictures of this somewhat hilarious incident when internet is good enough to make that worthwhile), and getting a pretty nasty sunburn that I am still trying to shake, unfortunate being that I am headed to the Gulf of Aden to soak up the warmth for a few days. But what I think matters the most is this:

Addis is pretty much the friendliest, and certainly safest, African capital city I have ever been in. Perhaps its size helps, it’s only 3 million people, so a city like Nairobi sort of pales in comparison, even more so if we count the north African cities like Cairo. But I didn’t take a single bus or share-taxi ride here without someone being genuinelly interested in talking, hearing about my trip, and hearing my impressions of their City, something that certainly wasn’t always the case when I was in Kenya or Uganda.

I really want to come back here and do a bit more exploring…. I’ve even been thinking about it for this summer, although I have Myanmar and Thailand planned and am pretty excited about the prospects of that trip as well. Perhaps the following summer?

Anyway, Addis is awesome. Now to eat a shady omelitte from a street vendor in front of the airport and wait for my alleged flight.

Andrew

February 25, 2013
anarcho-queer:

US Military Plans Drone Base Near Mali: Official
The US military plans to set up a base for drones in northwest Africa to bolster surveillance of al-Qaida’s affiliate in the region as well as allied Islamist extremists, a US official told AFP on Monday.  The base for the robotic, unmanned aircraft would likely be located in Niger, on the eastern border of Mali, where French forces are currently waging a campaign against al-Qaida in the Islamic Maghreb (AQIM), said the official, who spoke on condition of anonymity.  If the plan gets the green light, up to 300 US military service members and contractors could be sent to the base to operate the drone aircraft, according to the New York Times.  US Africa Command was also looking at an alternative location for the base in Burkina Faso, the official said.  The United States and Niger signed a status of forces agreement Monday, which will provide legal safeguards for any American forces in the country. The Pentagon secures such agreements for base arrangements or troop deployments.  As news emerged of the planned drone base, the Wall Street Journal reported that US military and intelligence officials were weighing plans to provide French fighter aircraft with sophisticated data to help them hunt down militants in Mali.  President Barack Obama’s administration waited for more than two weeks before agreeing to offer aerial refueling tankers to the French forces, amid concerns among some advisers that assisting the French could draw the United States into an open-ended conflict.  The Obama administration has also provided transport planes to help ferry French weapons and troops and to share intelligence with Paris from surveillance aircraft, including reportedly unmanned Global Hawk spy planes.

anarcho-queer:

US Military Plans Drone Base Near Mali: Official

The US military plans to set up a base for drones in northwest Africa to bolster surveillance of al-Qaida’s affiliate in the region as well as allied Islamist extremists, a US official told AFP on Monday.

The base for the robotic, unmanned aircraft would likely be located in Niger, on the eastern border of Mali, where French forces are currently waging a campaign against al-Qaida in the Islamic Maghreb (AQIM), said the official, who spoke on condition of anonymity.

If the plan gets the green light, up to 300 US military service members and contractors could be sent to the base to operate the drone aircraft, according to the New York Times.

US Africa Command was also looking at an alternative location for the base in Burkina Faso, the official said.

The United States and Niger signed a status of forces agreement Monday, which will provide legal safeguards for any American forces in the country. The Pentagon secures such agreements for base arrangements or troop deployments.

As news emerged of the planned drone base, the Wall Street Journal reported that US military and intelligence officials were weighing plans to provide French fighter aircraft with sophisticated data to help them hunt down militants in Mali.

President Barack Obama’s administration waited for more than two weeks before agreeing to offer aerial refueling tankers to the French forces, amid concerns among some advisers that assisting the French could draw the United States into an open-ended conflict.

The Obama administration has also provided transport planes to help ferry French weapons and troops and to share intelligence with Paris from surveillance aircraft, including reportedly unmanned Global Hawk spy planes.

February 11, 2013
Overlooked News Dept: Leftist Leader(s) killed in Tunisia

As if this global trend seems to ever end….

Tunisia: Murder most foul

Assassination of opposition leader Shokri Belaid highlights a string of beatings and killings since country’s uprising.
Last Modified: 07 Feb 2013 14:46
 

Tunisians of all political stripes are in shock after the killing of Shokri Belaid, leader of the Democratic Patriots
party.

Of all the political turmoil the country has experienced since the 2010-11 uprising, the slaying of the leftist politician - a well-known opposition figure and vocal critic of the ruling coalition - marks a new low.

The resulting crisis has led to the collapse of the government, and could potentially doom the election that was set to take place later this year.

Many say the killing is unsurprising, and that the Islamist-led government bears a heavy responsibility for tolerating and fuelling a deep partisan divide and a culture of political violence.

A star of the Popular Front, a leftist political alliance of which his party is a member, Belaid had many supporters among those who accused the current government of failing to deliver on social justice and economic development.

He was a figurehead of the protests in Siliana last November, when tensions over unemployment and stalling economic progress erupted. Ali Laarayedh, Tunisia’s interior minister, accused Belaid of inciting the protesters against the police. Belaid in turn said the interior ministry was guilty of tyranny.

Belaid, a lawyer and activist, had also been at the forefront of the early lawyer’s protests in December 2010, which grew to become the uprising that toppled the Tunisian government in January 2011. The Ennahdha movement and most of the country’s opposition parties did not give the uprising their explicit backing until the last days.

Violent attacks

Wednesday’s shooting is the second suspected killing of an opposition politician since the uprising, and one of many violent attacks.

I
n October, Lotfi Naqdh - a regional leader of the secularist conservative Nida Tounes Party - was beaten to death in the southern town of Tatouine. His death followed an outbreak of violence between his party and government supporters, the first big flare-up of interparty violence.

The government claimed he died of a heart attack, but an autopsy last week confirmed that Naqdh had died as a result of lynching at the hands of government supporters. Said Chebli, the head of the Tatouine branch of Leagues for the Protection of the Revolution is one of the people implicated in Naqdh’s killing.

Ali Fares, a MP of the ruling Ennahdha party, called on Thursday for Chebli and other suspects in the mob lynching to be released. “These people came out into the streets for the noble cause of defending the revolution, and instead of paying them homage, they have been incarcerated,” Fares declared.

Many opposition parties, human rights groups and activists have called for the dissolution of the leagues, which some compare to militia groups. Belaid was among these critics, arguing that the groups were reinforcing a deep partisan divide and trying to assert ownership over what the revolution meant.

For its part, Ennahdha argues they are a counterforce against its secular opponents, particularly the UGTT, the mighty national union. Members of the league were accused of attacking the UGTT headquarters last December.

The media, viewed by many government supporters as being anti-Islamist, have also been targeted. At a protest against the country’s media in Sousse in December, for instance, demonstrators reportedly chanted the slogan “News, we want your skin!”

Exactly who is responsible for the assassination is unclear, and members of Ennahdha have also been targeted by political violence. Abdelfattah Mourou, the party’s co-founder and an advocate of a progressive form of political Islam, was reportedly assaulted by a group of Salafists a week ago.

Independent investigation

The UK-based rights group Amnesty International has called for an independent investigation into Belaid’s death, and for the authorities to take a more proactive stance against political violence.

“Today’s shocking killing must serve as a wake-up call to the authorities. It is their duty to protect all individuals, including those who criticise the government or Tunisia’s leading Ennahdha party, from violence. No group, regardless of its affiliation, can be above the law,” Hassiba Hadj Sahraoui, Middle East and North Africa Deputy Director at Amnesty International, said in a press statement.

Said Aidi, a member of the executive committee of the Republican Party and a former minister, said that opposition parties had been calling on the interior ministry for months to put an end to inflammatory partisan language against opposition figures.

Aidi, a conservative secularist, told Al Jazeera in a phone interview that the government was “totally responsible” for Belaid’s death because of what he described as its indifference to the intimidation of opposition activists and politicians.

“There have been incitations to murder made in the mosques against figures including Shokri Belaid,” he said. Aidi says he was himself beaten by groups he believes were linked to Ennahdha, during a peaceful march commemorating the Tunisian union leader and political philosopher Farhat Hached last December 5. He suffered a skull fracture and serious eye injury, and says his aggressors escaped with impunity

“These are fascist thugs,” he told Al Jazeera, adding that in the past few days, many opposition movements have had their meetings disrupted by the groups.

But Ennahdha denies any links to Wednesday’s killing, which it has firmly denounced. “This is a sad day for Tunisia … we’ve never had anything like this in our history,” said Zied Ladhari, an Ennahdha MP. “Even if there are political divergences between us, we can’t accept such acts of violence against those who don’t share our ideas.”

He told Al Jazeera in a phone interview that a serious investigation would be needed to uncover who was behind the killing, and that those behind it were trying to derail Tunisia’s democratic transition.

(Source)

January 30, 2013
EXCEPTIONAL look at progress, or lack thereof, in post-revolutionary Tunisia

January 4, 2013
Best Report I have seen in weeks about what is going on in Mali

They were told to assemble in Gao’s market place at dusk. A man accused of using tobacco was escorted before the crowd by several members of the al-Qaida splinter group Movement for Tawhid and Jihad in West Africa.

“Then they chopped off his hand. They wanted to show us what they could do,” said Ahmed, 39, a meat trader from the town in northern Mali.

That was not the end of it. The severed hand was tossed into a vat of boiling water. Then, according to Ahmed, the man was pinned down and over the next hour the bent, misshapen hand was sewn crudely back onto his stump. Ahmed, too terrified to disclose his full name, fled Gao the next day, 8 November: “I had to go. I could not live my life.”

….

December 30, 2012

footysphere:

Wonderful images of African grassroots football taken by photographer Jessica Hilltout. You can see more photos over on her website in a collection called amen. There’s a book too Amen - Grassroots Football in Africa by Jessica Hilltout which is an essential addition to any discerning football fan’s library.


(via 1001arabianights)

December 14, 2012
fotojournalismus:


A woman runs along a road during an air strike by the Sudanese air force in Rubkona on April 23, 2012. Sudanese warplanes carried out air strikes on South Sudan on Monday, killing three people near a southern oil town, residents and military officials said, three days after South Sudan pulled out of a disputed oil field. A Reuters reporter at the scene, outside the oil town of Bentiu, said he saw a fighter aircraft drop two bombs near a river bridge between Bentiu and the neighboring town of Rubkona. 
[Credit : Goran Tomasevic / Reuters]

“I was travelling by car with some colleagues to the Sudan People’s Liberation Movement (SPLM) headquarters when a fighter jet attacked the area and dropped a bomb about 150 meters away from us. This woman began running but really there’s nowhere to run because you don’t know where the next bomb will drop but people panic.”
- GORAN TOMASEVIC, South Sudan (Reuters’ Best Photos of the Year 2012)

fotojournalismus:

A woman runs along a road during an air strike by the Sudanese air force in Rubkona on April 23, 2012. Sudanese warplanes carried out air strikes on South Sudan on Monday, killing three people near a southern oil town, residents and military officials said, three days after South Sudan pulled out of a disputed oil field. A Reuters reporter at the scene, outside the oil town of Bentiu, said he saw a fighter aircraft drop two bombs near a river bridge between Bentiu and the neighboring town of Rubkona. 

[Credit : Goran Tomasevic / Reuters]

“I was travelling by car with some colleagues to the Sudan People’s Liberation Movement (SPLM) headquarters when a fighter jet attacked the area and dropped a bomb about 150 meters away from us. This woman began running but really there’s nowhere to run because you don’t know where the next bomb will drop but people panic.”

GORAN TOMASEVIC, South Sudan (Reuters’ Best Photos of the Year 2012)

November 7, 2012
cornersoftheworld:

Above Uganda (by austinmann)

cornersoftheworld:

Above Uganda (by austinmann)

November 1, 2012
fotojournalismus:

Mozambican refugee camp, 1988.
[Credit : Peter Turnley]

fotojournalismus:

Mozambican refugee camp, 1988.

[Credit : Peter Turnley]

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