Travellers and Tourists and the Industry and Guilt and Experience and….
Hey, what’s up.
So, I haven’t really written anything for a while (a fact which is probably masked by the massive dumping of saved ponderings that will occur on Sept 6 or 7 when I finally hit internet access and start to unload the hard drive of my travel computer), and I haven’t had the chance to write much of a reflection on or summary of the tour of Bangladesh’s Sunderbans (the world’s largest mangrove forest/last wild preserve of the Bengal Tiger), but I want to reflect a little bit on a situation I am grappling with at the moment.
The next few nights are going to be crazy for me. Tonight, we are sailing all night, and I am in a cabin back by the engine room, so it will be a somewhat loud night in transit. Tomorrow night, I am on an overnight bus (something I am no stranger to), back to Dhaka, but the fact that the roads are pretty terrible between here and there means sleep will be a bit limited. Tomorrow night, at 9PM, I will take off for Manhattan via Dubai, A journey which, not including stopovers, is 19 hours, but including them is 21. Without entering the Southern Hemisphere, it is the longest possible air trip… longer than NYC/Sydney or Auckland. So. Yeah. In reality, with the time change, it will be four nights before I have real sleep, possibly longer if jet-lag takes a rough toll. I have night classes the day I land, and predict a bit of a rough explanation to US customs about what it was, exactly, I was doing in Cairo and Iraq and Bangla. So, all in all, the net few days will be a bit of a long haul drag, something I am kind of used to, and will always gladly do to make travel, understanding, and adventure happen, but still prefer to avoid where possible.
But an experience tonight made me feel like both an asshole and an exploiter. Due to a glitch with room assignments on the mangrove cruiser I’m currently on, I ended up being assigned to share a room with three guides in training who are coming along. Honestly, I prefer it immensely to being in the “gringo room” that was initially planned, as that guy is quite a culturally insensitive dick (who operates denim mils in Bangladesh, Vietnam, and China, something which requires a bit of a loose moral compass, I believe). We have stayed up late talking every night (except for tonight, more on that in a moment) about Bangladesh, Religion, Politics, Development, the US, and Life in General. It has been awesome. Tonight, someone complained that they didn’t feel we had trekked enough (one trek was canceled due to an unusually high tide flooding the path more than the general 15 inches of dirt and crabs and mud we are used to wading through.) So, we are sailing overnight. Meaning they are not allowed to sleep, and will have to lead a relatively strenuous trek tomorrow, before coming on an overnight bus from the Sunderbans to Dhaka, which they have to stay awake on to serve us. Meaning they will be up, AND WORKING, for 72 hours. And that is fucked. The most vocal complainer in the group about the canceled trek was the US-bred denim-mill-man. And, you know what? Fuck that.
I know this sound a little bit high and mighty, but I think this is part of the reason there is general hostility among the backpacking community towards the kinds of people who do these organized tours. Sure, we have a connection to the tourist industry too. Air travel, besides being the fastest growing contributor to climate change, requires service, from the bag loaders to pilots to flight attendants, working on these 14.5 hour flights. But that is, in my view, different from expecting a total of 10 people to skip a nights sleep, cause you just HAVE to go on a 2.5 hour walk. Fuck that. I am grumpy. And feel bad for the people that I consider to be my friends. And honestly didn’t feel like another trek tomorrow anyway, but feel like now I cannot NOT go… cause how can I say “I am just a little tired and want to rest) to people who have forgone a night of sleep for my convenience.
Bah. Frustrating. This trip has been one of my best travel experiences ever. But frustrating.
Talk soon. Like when I am at the airport.
Andrew